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Rice Bowls, Couscous, Edamame—Oh My!

Tastier, healthier lunches now at your child's school

by Sheila Mulrooney Eldred

Published Oct 2008 in METRO •METRO Spotlight | 0 Comments, Talk about this article »

Roasted cauliflower, jicama salads, and black bean wraps with plum sauce grace their menus. They use culinary terms like "garde-manger" and "taste palettes" and discuss using dried romaine leaves to "pop the color" of the dishes.

No, these aren't chefs at five-star restaurants; they're nutrition directors at our area's public schools. And they're on the cutting edge of food trends, doing what they can to provoke a taste and nutrition revolution in school lunches.

That means different things in different districts. Cost, preparation space, transportation, and even the cultural backgrounds of students all present challenges. But in the past few years, most districts have reduced unhealthy a la carte items, replaced simple carbs with whole grains, eliminated trans fats, and added more fresh fruits and vegetables.

"We're trying to help students understand how enhancing their nutrition helps them feel better, look better, and do better in sports and school. If we get that message across to them, then we'll truly be successful," says Barb Mechura, director of Royal Cuisine for Hopkins School District and chairwoman of the Minnesota School Food Service Directors.

Students Have a Say

The involvement of the kids is key, directors agree. In St. Paul last year, they tried new menu options in a contest called "Wild about Grains." Corn and Barley Ensalada won and is now a regular menu item. This year's focus will be on introducing legumes. In Wayzata, staff members monitored trash bins for instant feedback on which foods missed the mark. In Hopkins, staff members visit schools and ask students, "How was lunch today?"

In general, the responses are positive. In Minneapolis, when the district started offering more fresh fruits, consumption soared. Wayzata students loved the edamame, part of the district's "Local and Fresh from the Midwest" program. St. Paul kids went wild for rice bowls. In focus groups, Hopkins students gave the new cuisine high marks for freshness and quality.

While some changes have been immediate--Minneapolis removed its deep fryers, for example--others are coming slowly.

"It's nicer to have a gradual implementation so there's no revolt," Mechura jokes.

Some of those gradual changes even go unnoticed by students. Districts have invited chefs into the cafeterias to revamp classic recipes; baked goods in St. Paul, for example, now incorporate whole wheat flour. But when veggies were added to meat sauce, students balked, so the cooks went back to the kitchen. When they grated the carrots so they couldn't be detected, the students gobbled up the results.

Local for Real

While getting food from local sources is high on most directors' priority lists, they say getting large quantities has been challenging. Cost, especially for organic products, can be prohibitive. Still, most schools manage to feature local apples in the fall. Hopkins has arranged to get blemished but still healthy produce that can be prepped in large quantities. Wayzata has expanded beyond fresh fruits to use locally made flour as well as meat from a nearby bison ranch. And a local milk supplier, Schroeder, agreed to reduce the amount of sugar in its milk at the request of the Minneapolis and St. Paul districts.

Controlling Choice

By removing junk food a la carte items, directors say they could focus on introducing more flavors, textures, and colors. Before, "some kids would just have three orders of fries and juice," says Jean Ronnei, food service director for St. Paul public schools and president of the Minnesota School Nutrition Association.

Now, in Minneapolis, plum sauce and pesto are spread on fresh sandwiches and wraps in place of mayonnaise, says Rosemary Dederichs, food service director for Minneapolis public schools. St. Paul has begun offering ethnic items, such as the popular Hmong beef fried rice. Wayzata's "Spice Is Nice" program will highlight different herbs and spices each month (lavender cookies or wasabi peas, anyone?).

There's still room for improvement, though. Minneapolis was among many districts nationwide that received a failing grade in a study by the Cancer Project that looked at the number of processed foods on the menu (though school officials have said the study was biased), and directors say it's difficult to balance introducing healthy choices with rising food and fuel costs.

Hopefully, though, the days of french fries for lunch are over. "We're shaping future dietary habits," says Mary Anderson, president-elect of the Minnesota School Nutrition Association and Culinary Express director for Wayzata public schools.

Taste for Yourself

What's your child having for lunch today? Maybe something like this.

Fiesta Couscous Serves 6 to 8

1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon salt
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon lime juice
1/2 teaspoon minced garlic
1 cup couscous
1/4 cup cilantro, chopped
1 cup corn kernels
1/4 cup onion, chopped

In a small container, blend the cumin, salt, oil, lime juice, and garlic.
In a medium saucepan, bring 1 1/4 cups water to a boil. Place the couscous in a large heatproof bowl and cover with the boiling water. Cover the bowl tightly and let stand until the liquid is absorbed and the couscous is tender, about 10 minutes. Fluff with a fork and stir in the cilantro, corn, and onion. Pour on the lime dressing and toss to blend.

Recipe courtesy of Saint Paul Public Schools Nutrition Services (www.sppscafe.org/menurecipes.html)

Orange-Strawberry-Lime Salad Serves 4 to 6

1 can mandarin oranges in light syrup, drained
1 1/2 cups fresh or thawed frozen strawberries
1 1/2 tablespoons honey
1 tablespoon lime juice

In a medium serving bowl, combine the oranges and strawberries. In a small bowl, combine the honey and lime juice; pour over the fruit and stir gently.

Recipe courtesy of Hopkins School District